Sixty years when the primary ascent of Godwin Austen (8,611m), associate degree all Pakistani expedition has created it to the highest of Pakistan’s highest mountain and also the most troublesome 8000 meter peak within the world.
Ali Durrani, Ali Rozi, Hasan Jan, Mahound Sadiq, Ghulam Mehdi and Rehmatullah Baig area unit the six climbers from the eight member ‘K2 2014 Islamic Republic of Pakistan Expedition: Sixty Years Later’ WHO with success created it to the highest of Godwin Austen on Saturday.
24-year-old Ali Durrani is that the youngest Pakistani to possess climbed Godwin Austen.
Italian climb ambassador and alpine guide Michele Cuccchi additionally reached the summit of Godwin Austen with the Pakistani team.
Mr Cucchi, together with speed sport world champion and Italian climb ambassador Simone Origone, provided technical help to the Pakistani climbers.
The Pakistani climbers hail from the villages of Sadpara, Shigar and Hushe valleys in Gilgit-Baltistan region.
Though unknown to most Pakistanis, the climbers WHO shaped a part of the Godwin Austen 2014 {pakistan|Pakistan|Islamic Republic of Islamic Republic of Pakistan|West Pakistan|Asian country|Asian nation} Expedition area unit a number of the toughest men in Pakistan. With most of them operating as guides, ascension instructors and high altitude porters, the lads have a formidable list of 8000m and 7000m summits to be pleased with.
Some of them have additionally served within the ’Concordia Rescue Team’, one in all the very best rescue groups within the world that carries out mountain rescues in Islamic Republic of Pakistan.
Team leader Mahound Taqi, Hushey Valley’s most well-known guide and climber, has the summits of Broad Peak and Spantik beneath his belt.
Hasan Jan, additionally from Hushey has done Nanga Parbat, Char-Ku Za, Gasherbrum two and Broad Peak.
Mohammad Sadiq from Sadpara, the village aforementioned to possess the most effective high altitude porters within the world, has done G1, G2 and Broad Peak.
Hushey’s Ghulam Mehdi has conquered G1, G2, K7, Nanga Parbat and Spantik whereas his peer Ali Durrani scaled Broad Peak earlier.
Ali Rozi additionally from Hushey has climbed Broad Peak and G2. Mahound Hasan has scaled G2, Godwin Austen and Broad Peak. Rehmatullah Baig from Shimshal is associate degree ace climber.
Pakistan is home to associate degree alpine paradise wherever 5 of the fourteen 8000m peaks as well as Godwin Austen, Gasherbrum one and a pair of and Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat stand with pride, aboard many unclimbed 6000m and 7000m peaks.
At 8,611m, Godwin Austen is nearly 237m under Mt. Everest eight,848 m, however it’s chiseler and far more durable to climb.
Of the fourteen mountains within the world over eight,000 meters, Godwin Austen has the very best failure rate, thus earning the name of the ‘Savage Mountain’. whereas some 4000 climbers have ascended the additional fashionable Mt. Everest, roughly four hundred have set foot on the summit of Godwin Austen.
Though the parcel of land is harsh and also the ‘death zone’ ever unwelcoming, the Godwin Austen 2014 Islamic Republic of Pakistan Expedition members were helped by atmospheric condition window. Some thirty five climbers created a push for the Godwin Austen summit on Gregorian calendar month twenty six this year.
In July 31, 2012, twenty eight climbers managed to scale Godwin Austen in an exceedingly single day, the foremost eminent day in K2’s troublesome climb history thus far.
“‘Sherpa’ and ‘porter’ area unit the labels that Western mountaineers apply to the autochthonous folks of the Himalaya. To expeditions, such folks area unit a significant supply of labour. and since they're got their work, it's straightforward to slide into a rather proud mode of thinking that presupposes that each one Nepalis, Pakistanis, and Indians see mountains as no quite a supply of financial gain,” Australian journalist/climber Greg kid wrote in an exceedingly 1987 article for ascension Magazine.
Given the actual fact that climb is an upscale occupation and also the value of associate degree expedition will run into a minimum of 5,000 greenbacks for even a Pakistani, several high altitude porters and climbers area unit unable to travel for peaks that they assist foreigners in ascension.
In this background, not several Pakistanis will aim for the mountains that are on the ‘to do list’ of world category mountaineers.
The expedition was supported by SEED (Social Economic surroundings Development) that is promoted by EvK2CNR and also the Italian government.
The aim behind the initiative was to grant Pakistani climbers an opportunity show their talent and tell the globe that Pakistanis aren't any less once it involves ascension.
In a statement issued earlier, EvK2CNR president Agostino prosecuting officer Polenza and knowledgeable mountaineer said: “Last year I met the Pakistani team at Broad Peak Base Camp. Receiving my compliments the Pakistani mountaineer told American state their dream to climb Godwin Austen and asked for facilitate. i used to be glad to assist them. therefore here we have a tendency to area unit, the expedition is beginning.”
Talking with Dawn.com, Munir Ahmed, Communications adviser SEED-EvK2CNR, aforementioned that the all men were doing well and can air their thanks to Skardu when a lot of required rest.
“Team leader Mahound Taqi and Ghulam Nabi, were unable to summit and came from Camp IV following a bout of high hypoxia,” Munir side.
Though Everest is that the highest peak within the world, mountaineers say it's Godwin Austen that sets true climbers with the exception of ‘mountaineering feather seekers’.
K2, additionally known as the ‘Savage Mountain’ attributable to the intense problem of ascent and its bottleneck, has the second-highest morbidity among the eight thousanders when Annapurna.
Statistics counsel that ‘for each four those that have reached the summit, one has died trying’. therefore extreme area unit the weather of nature that the mountain has ne'er been climbed in winters associate degreed remains an elusive climb achievement.
In 1856, the mountain was surveyed by the eu survey team. Thomas Montgomerie was the member of the team WHO selected it “K2” for being the second peak of the Karakorum Range.
The other peaks were originally named K1, K3, K4 and K5, however were eventually renamed Masherbrum, Gasherbrum four, Gasherbrum two and Gasherbrum one severally.
Later, in 1892, Martin Conway semiconductor diode a British expedition that reached “Concordia” on the Baltoro ice mass.
Oscar Eckenstein, Aleister Crowley, Jules Jacot-Guillarmod, Heinrich Pfannl, Victor Wessely and Guy Knowles created the primary try on Godwin Austen within the year 1902 via the Northeast Ridge.
It took “fourteen days simply to succeed in the foot of the mountain”, wrote Crowley in his book ‘Confessions of Aleister Crowley’. Back then, no light-weight ascension instrumentation existed and also the explorers relied additional on their instincts and can power than anything to push for larger heights.
After 5 serious and dear makes an attempt, the team reached half-dozen,525 meters though considering the problem of the challenge, and also the lack of contemporary ascension instrumentation or weatherproof materials, Crowley’s statement that “neither man nor beast was injured” highlights the pioneering spirit and bravado of the try.
The failures were additionally attributed to illness (Crowley was suffering the residual effects of malaria), a mixture of questionable physical coaching, temperament conflicts, and poor weather – of sixty eight days spent on Godwin Austen (at the time, the record for the longest time spent at such associate degree altitude) solely eight provided clear weather.
After the unsuccessful try, the second try was created in 1938 by associate degree yankee expedition semiconductor diode by Charles Houston.
Though they patterned that the Abruzzi e Molise Spur was the foremost sensible route, and reached a height of around eight,000 metres (26,000 ft), they were forced to abandon the try attributable to decreasing provides and also the threat of inclemency.
In 1939, associate degree expedition semiconductor diode by Fritz Wiessner came at intervals two hundred metres (660 ft) of the summit, however led to disaster once climbers Dudley Wolfe, Pasang Kikuli, Pasang Kitar and Pintso disappeared high on the mountain.
In 1953, Charles Houston came to Godwin Austen to steer the yankee expedition. The expedition unsuccessful attributable to a storm that fastened the team down for 10 days at seven,800 metres (25,590 ft).
The first ascent of Godwin Austen was done by the Italian expedition on Gregorian calendar month thirty one, 1954, once Achille Compagnoni and covering material Lacedelli reached the summit. conductor Bonatti and Pakistani Hunza porter emir Mahdi, were important for the expedition because the carried {oxygen|O|atomic number eight|chemical element|element|gas} bottles for the 2 climbers to the peak of 8,100metres (26,600 ft). And thus Pakistan’s Godwin Austen became the ‘Italian Mountain’.
The summit of Godwin Austen remained elusive until 1977 then, with most expeditions abandoning the trip attributable to inclemency. In 1977, a joint Pakistan-Japan Expedition semiconductor diode by , Ichiro Yoshizawa tried to scale Godwin Austen.
Pakistani mountaineers Ashraf Aman and Nazir Sabir were a part of the fifty two member team that aimed for Godwin Austen with a military of some 1500 porters. Facing robust weather, Ashraf Aman was the primary Pakistani to summit Godwin Austen on August seven, 1977.
In 1981, ace mountaineer Sabir came to climb Godwin Austen once more however now from a replacement route. Sabir and his team from Waseda University created {mountaineering|mountain ascension|climb|mount} history by climbing K2’s West/South West Ridge instead of the same old Abruzzi e Molise route.
Sabir later went on to bring additional glory to the country when turning into the primary Islamic Republic of Pakistan to climb Mt. Everest, the very best peak within the world.
In the following years, variety of Pakistani high altitude porters and climbers created it to the highest of Godwin Austen. These include: Islamic calendar month Shah and Mehrban Shah (K2 International Expedition Gregorian calendar month seven, 1995), Asad Khan (Swiss-Italian Expedition, July 27, 2004), Nisar Hussain and Mahound Hussain (Chinese Expedition, July 27, 2004), Mahound Ali and Shaheen Baig (K2 International Expedition, July 28, 2004) and late Mehrban Karim (K2 International Expedition, August 1, 2008, died on descent).
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